1: Small Leak Of Brake Fluid At Parking Spot:
A brake fluid leak can be dangerous for any vehicle. Brake fluid leaks diminish the working pressure of the hydraulic braking system and can adversely affect brake performance. As fluid leaks out, the available fluid in the master cylinder reservoir is reduced, and eventually the brakes will no longer cease to function.
If you suspect your brakes are leaking, there are a few things that you should do to make sure that your brakes will continue to function safely. You need to locate the leak to investigate it for further repair. In any case, a brake fluid leak should be addressed and repaired immediately to ensure that the vehicle is safe to drive
2. A Low Or Spongy Brake Pedal:
A brake pedal that is functioning optimally should feel firm, as if it has a tight hold on the brakes. A “soft,” or “spongy,” brake pedal describes a situation when the brake pedal does not have that firmness. When this occurs, you are placing yourself and your passengers in a potentially unsafe situation.
One of the most common causes of a spongy brake pedal is a brake line leak. When brake fluid leaks out of holes in the lines, the fluid levels become too low to apply adequate force to the brake pads. This makes the brake pedal feel soft underfoot with little to no resistance.
Some of the main causes of fluid leakage include damage from road debris, corrosion from adverse weather or simple wear and tear. Sometimes leaks will be immediately obvious; other times, they’ll only be visible under close inspection. Many drivers are first alerted to a fluid leak by their brake warning light.
If you do have a leak in your brake lines, it’s important to have them repaired or replaced immediately. If all your brake fluid leaks out from the holes, your car won’t be able to stop. Once the brake lines are fixed, a simple fluid top up will have your brake system in working order again.
3. A Brake Pedal That Is Harder Than Usual:
Vacuum – or really lack of vacuum pressure – is the most common cause of a hard brake pedal, and therefore the first thing to look at when a hard pedal is present. Any brake booster (whether from Master Power or any other supplier) needs a vacuum source to operate. In gasoline-powered cars, the engine provides a partial vacuum suitable for the brakes’ power booster. The booster requires 18” of vacuum to operate at full efficiency. Without the proper vacuum level, a brake booster will get a progressively harder pedal and eventually end up at a point where you feel like you are pushing against a wall. Your brake system’s booster works by a series of diaphragms inside the booster and air on both sides of the diaphragm. An improper amount of vacuum creates a scenario where the diaphragms can’t move the pushrod into the master cylinder. When this happens, the pedal gets harder. If sufficient vacuum isn’t being supplied within the booster, you may have to consider installing an electric vacuum pump, or canister depending on how far below 18-inches the vacuum pressure has dropped.
4. A Shaking Brake Pedal:
The most common reason for a car to shake is related to tires. If the tires are out of balance then the steering wheel can shake. This shaking starts at around 50-55 miles per hour (mph). It gets worse around 60 mph but starts to get better at high speeds.Sometimes brake rotors can be the cause of shaking. If your steering wheel shakes while you are braking then the problem could be caused by “out of round” brake rotors. This vibration can also be felt through your brake pedal.Another common problem that can cause shaking is when a brake caliper sticks on. When this happens you will experience a vibration through the steering wheel starting at 45 to 50 miles per hour. It will get very bad the faster you go, and you will also smell a burning odor when you stop.
The good news is that these problems are easily avoided or corrected.
The tire problem can be avoided by purchasing good quality tires and by having all of the tires carefully inspected when your car goes in for preventative maintenance service.
The brake problem can be avoided by including brake caliper service when your brakes are due for maintenance. This is particularly important for vehicles that have over 75,000 miles on them. And, like your tires, have all of your brake pads inspected as part of a regularly scheduled preventive maintenance program.
In fact, by sticking to your manufacturer’s scheduled maintenance program, you can avoid or predict these problems. Normally, the brake and tire inspections are performed when you have an oil change.
5. An Emergency Brake Light That Says “on” On The Instrumental Panel:
Any pressure on the parking brake cable will cause the light to stay on . parking brake Not Disengaging: Sometimes the trouble isn’t with the switch or the cables, but with the parking brake itself. If the brake does not disengage when the handle is lowered, the warning light will stay on in the dash.
Most vehicles have a sensor that tells the car or truck when the parking brake is on. If you don’t take your parking brake it all the way off, your vehicle will think that it is still engaged and warn you when you try to drive away.
Vehicle have this inbuilt warning because if you drive with your parking brake on, it will wear down the lining of the brake shoes and make them go bad prematurely. Many newer cars have a separate warning for the parking brake and the rest of the braking system.